Winter meals just beg for the bright flavors of citrus
CONCORD, CA (Dec. 17, 2024) — The cold winter months are here and with them comes delicious California citrus.
You will find many varieties at your local farmers market that you won’t see at the grocery store, and they’re brought to you fresh from the orchards of the farmers who grew them.
Look for tangerines and mandarins, sunny yellow lemons, lovely green limes, big grapefruit and even bigger pomelos, along with many varieties of oranges such as the blood orange and the Cara Cara. Researchers are developing varieties each year, so you might discover something new.
Citrus was once king in California, with vast rolling hills of orange and lemon trees. Franciscan friars first brought them to the state to plant at the missions in the late 1700s. Others planted them in the 19th century as the “Second Gold Rush.” Citrus then spread to the rest of Southern California in the early 20th century, with field after field of oranges, grapefruit and lemons.
The acreage is far less now, because housing has become a more profitable “crop.” But Ventura and San Joaquin counties still have a bounty of citrus trees. Smaller farms across the state also grow wonderful specialty citrus such as kefir limes, Golden Nugget tangerines, kumquats, pomelos, blood oranges, tangelos and other up-and-coming varieties. They grow mandarin oranges against the northern foothills, lemons near Santa Paula and Fillmore in Ventura County, and oranges on the flats of Fresno and Merced.
Citrus is the perfect accompaniment for heavy winter meals, offering bright fresh flavor, abundant nutrition and versatility of use. Fresh citrus salads, delicious sauces, and tangy dressings and marinades can lighten any meal. Here’s a nice dessert to try this holiday season.
Candied Orange Slices Dipped in
dark Chocolate
1½ c. sugar
1 c. water
2 blood oranges, sliced crosswise into quarter-inch-thick pieces
5 oz. good-quality dark chocolate (preferably 70% cocoa), chopped
Maldon salt for garnish
Combine sugar and water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar has dissolved completely, about five minutes.
Reduce the heat to low, add orange slices and simmer until translucent, 20-30 minutes. Remove pan from heat and let cool completely, about two hours, in a cool spot.
Place waxed paper over a sheet pan. Using tongs, remove the slices, shaking off excess syrup, and place them on the rack in a single layer. Let the slices dry overnight. Reserve the syrup for another use.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl placed over simmering water in a saucepan. Melt the chocolate, stirring until smooth. Remove from heat.
Drag half of each candied orange slice through the chocolate, then place on the parchment in a single layer to dry. Garnish with Maldon salt. Leave until the chocolate has set, about one hour.
The Concord Farmers Market is in Todos Santos Plaza Tuesdays.
Editor’s Note: The Pioneer bids Debra Morris a happy retirement with this, her last column for us. We thank her for 20 years of faithful farmers market coverage. For more stories about food in the Pioneer, see Cindy Gershen’s Farm to Taste column and Rich Eber’s Taste and Tell.