Longport sails into Concord with fine seafood dining
CONCORD, CA (Oct. 21, 2022) — With the recent closing of Scott’s, Yankee Pier and EMC, local white tablecloth seafood restaurants have found themselves on the endangered species list. Thankfully, the long-standing Walnut Creek Yacht Club has a compatriot with the newly opened Longport Fish Co. in Concord.
Located at 2015 Diamond Blvd. in the Veranda, this eatery is a breath of fresh air in the local culinary scene.
Under the guidance of chef/owner Nicholas (Nick) Diarenzo, Longport blends elegant cuisine in a causal atmosphere that makes formal attire unnecessary.
Each day, he can be found greeting customers and making sure the food is prepared to his specifications. He is no stranger to the restaurant trade.
Starting in a food truck at age 11 in Philadelphia, the young Diarenzo did everything from bussing tables to cutting up vegetables in the kitchen.
Heading West
Moving to the West Coast 22 years ago, Diarenzo worked at Chow and Ed Moose’s iconic Washington Square Bar and Grill in San Francisco prior to opening his own place. After founding and still running the Market Tavern and Prime Table Steakhouse in Stockton, Diarenzo decided to enter the upscale fish restaurant market.
Things begin with an appetizer list that takes several trips to sample. I tried the British Columbia sourced Fanny Bay oysters on the half shell. Served with a house-made vinaigrette and red cocktail sauce, this dish reminds one of Pike Place Market in Seattle. Also noteworthy were the wood-grilled Spanish octopus salad and the Maryland-style crab cakes served with arugula, pickled onions and house-made tartar sauce.
For the next course, our table sampled a Shrimp Louie with blue cheese dressing on the side and a world-class cobb salad made with ultra-fresh ingredients. Not to be missed is Longport’s creamy New England clam chowder – a must for me when dining there.
For the main course, the Italian-inspired cioppino was a real treat. The combination of mussels, clams, shrimp and calamari is served in a rich tomato broth. This dish was enhanced by fresh seafood provided six days a week by ABS Seafood and Allen Brothers.
On another visit, I split an order of spaghetti and clams with a friend. Unlike linguini and clams made elsewhere with canned shellfish in a tired Alfredo sauce, Longport’s dish featured a delicate combination of white wine, garlic, herbed breadcrumbs, a splash of cream and abundant fresh Manila clams. I extended this gourmet experience by dipping bread in the remaining sauce.
In addition to food from the sea, Longport offers land lovers a DemKota skirt steak, Mary’s wood-grilled half chicken, a Kurobuta pork chop and several other choices.
Lobster
Notto be forgotten are the fresh lobster selections, flown in live from New England. These prized crustaceans are served whole or in a lobster roll. Someday, when victorious in the lottery, I will spring for this Boston delicacy.
Following in the tradition of utilizing homemade dishes at every opportunity, Longport makes its own desserts. The banana pudding or classic New York cheesecake with raspberry sauce are ideal conclusions to a great meal.
Between 10 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. on weekends, they offer traditional brunch – including a kids’ menu. They make several varieties of Benedict using organic eggs, omelets and avocado toast served with Acme bread and breakfast potatoes. From the griddle, the tempting selections include cornbread with Calabrian chili-maple butter, brown butter oatmeal cakes and French toast.
Longport has a full bar and extensive wine list primarily featuring selections from the Napa Valley. They are open 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday and 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday. Reservations are recommended on weekends at 925-483-2053.
Rich Eber is a local journalist and long time resident of Concord. He covers topics from politics to gourmet food. Contact him at rjerje@pacbell.net
Rich Eber
Rich Eber is a local journalist and long time resident of Concord. His diverse topics covered go from politics to gourmet food. He can be reached at rjerje@pacbell.net