Culinary masterpieces await at Tzunun in Pleasant Hill
PLEASANT HILL, CA (July 12, 2022) — When I first wrote about Wence’s Restaurant in 2016, every member of the family – including Gerardo’s teenage son Jesus – worked there to keep the fledgling enterprise afloat. Six years later, it has evolved into being one of the top places in the region to dine.
Not resting on past achievements, Jesus Wence opened Mexican-themed Tzunun, with assistance from his dad. He describes the fare at the Pleasant Hill restaurant as “contemporary Mexican,” although I would call it gourmet extraordinaire.
Inspired by chef Enrique Olvera of world-renowned Pujol in Mexico City, Wence has high expectations for Tzunun. Located in a picturesque setting with outdoor seating overlooking Grayson Creek, Tzunun holds the promise of one day gaining Michelin stars.
Appealing appetizers
Start your meal with house-made empanadas, with fillings ranging from mushrooms to chorizo sausage. Chicharrones (pork rinds) are also a good appetizer. The Mexican street corn ribs provide an introduction to culinary gems that are to follow.
Wence delivers with dishes we are not accustomed to on the well-traveled Taco Trail, using organic ingredients for house-made sauces, salsas and tortillas. The Taquitos Dorados with Dungeness crab, Brussels sprouts and salsa verde are not to be missed. Ditto for the Langosta featuring Maine lobster, cotija cheese, roasted corn and chipotle cream encased in a corn tortilla.
The Arrachera tacos with skirt steak, cooked to order, provides a good choice for more traditional diners.
It is recommended that patrons share dishes in order to experience the diversity and unique flavor profiles Tzunun offers.
A must-try paella
Wence, who graduated from the culinary school at Diablo Valley College and further studied cooking in Spain, shows off his Latin heritage with a version of paella. With fresh squid, 16-20 shrimp, PEI mussels and Manila clams resting in a rich tomato broth on top of jasmine rice, it was my favorite dish.
Wence also shines with his Mole Negro sauce, utilizing 27 ingredients. He serves it with airline chicken and roasted fingerling potatoes to soak up the chocolate-accented flavors.
In contrast to the spicy entrees, Tzunun offers a diverse selection of salads that are deliciously different than what can be found at other restaurants in the area.
I tried the cactus salad. Eloquently shaped like a tower it has slices of ripe avocado on the side. A mixture of Roma tomatoes, white onion, cilantro and queso cheese, it tasted surprisingly delicious blended with citrus vinaigrette. They also have a tasty fruit salad with a lemon dressing and, of course, a version of the Mexican classic Caesar.
Along with its seafood-dominated menu, Tzunun has a full bar featuring exotic drinks. The bar utilizes dozens of mezcal and tequila selections. The wine list offers several vintages from Mexico, Spain and California.
Happy Hour
They have Happy Hour 3-6 p.m. weeknights, except on Friday, when it concludes at 5 p.m. This is a good time to experience the restaurant as small portions of menu items and reasonably priced drinks are available.
In all, Jesus has come up with an establishment that follows in the culinary footsteps of Wence’s on Oak Park Boulevard. Although young, he has shown a maturity seldom found in the business.
“I learned hard work, organization and pride from my parents, whom we are trying to emulate at Tzunun,” he said proudly.
It will be interesting to see how this restaurant and the proprietor evolve in what looks like a bright future.
Tzunun is at 2618 Pleasant Hill Road, Pleasant Hill. It is open noon-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, with an extra hour until closing time on Friday and Saturday. Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends. Call 925-961-5552 or visit tzunrestaurant.com.
Contact Richard Eber at rjerje@pacbell.net.
Rich Eber
Rich Eber is a local journalist and long time resident of Concord. His diverse topics covered go from politics to gourmet food. He can be reached at rjerje@pacbell.net