Spicy Joi brings Lao street food to Concord
CONCORD, CA (May 20, 2022) — Those who crave a taste of the Orient have been grounded by the COVID-19 pandemic for the last few years. But thanks to an abundance of restaurants at Concord’s Park & Shop, flying across the Pacific hasn’t been necessary to enjoy top-flight Asian cuisine.
Joining Ohgane Korean BBQ, Shan Shan Low, Kevin’s Noodle House and Tasty Pot is Spicy Joi Banh Mi x Lao Street Food, the newest establishment to grace the shopping center that dates back to the 1950s.
Under the ownership of Joi Simmaly, this restaurant started as a pop-up eatery sharing the kitchen at Rockin’ Crawfish prior to moving to its new digs three months ago. Joi earned his stripes at various Thai and Asian fusion eateries prior to launching Spicy Joi.
With virtually no Lao food offered in the area, Joi has been anxious to offer a taste of his homeland – which is surrounded by Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, China and Myanmar. “Along with the 49 unique ethnic groups in Laos, our food is greatly influenced by our neighbors yet is much different,” Joi notes.
This is most evident with the Thai-inspired Kua Kee Mao (drunken noodles). From Vietnam, he offers Banh Mi sandwiches. Served on a baguette with mayo butter, cucumber, jalapenos, cilantro, pickled carrots and daikon, they are not to be missed. Fillings include tofu, BBQ pork, roasted chicken or Lao sausage.
Mild or spicy?
Joi flavors the house-made sausage with three kinds of onions, kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass and red peppers. It comes in mild and spicy, but I prefer the spicy one.
He also concocts his own fish sauce, which is less pungent than what is produced in Vietnam. The land-locked Laos lacks seafood in its native cuisine, with the exception of river fish and a freshwater shrimp that lives in the rice paddies.
With so many fresh vegetables to select from in the fields of Laos, Spicy Joi features several Asian-style salads seldom found in our area. The Tum Makhoung (Lao-style papaya salad) offers complex ingredients along with a strong, padek-flavored dressing. Also noteworthy are the Tum Maktang (spicy cucumber salad) and the Nam Khao (crispy coconut salad) with cured pork.
These items can be consumed as a main course, although I find it best to split them as the flavors are intense.
A slightly sweet sticky rice provides a balance for many of Spicy Joi’s flavorful dishes. Pork also comes up on the menu in many forms, including barbecued, minced, cured, jerky and the belly. When dipped into fish sauce, culinary euphoria is close at hand.
Sweet treat
Although the restaurant has an attractive sweets menu, it is fun to stop next door at Uji Time Dessert. This popular Japanese franchise offers a wide array of slushes, matcha soft Asian ice cream, mochi and other tasty treats especially aimed at the younger market.
If black sesame, sakura, rose strawberry and other unique flavors served in a fish-shaped cone don’t float your boat, the Taiwanese-inspired 85 Degrees Bakery & Café can be found close by. They serve cupcakes, whole cakes, parfaits and dessert items catering to Asian tastes.
In general, 85 Degrees’ baked goods are not overly sweet and provide a satisfying culinary experience that pairs well with Spicy Joi and the many other great Asian restaurants that make Park & Shop a destination to bring the Far East to Concord’s front door.
Spicy Joi is at 1687 Willow Pass Road, Concord. Call 925-787-7508 or visit www.spicyjoibanhmi.com for more information.
Contact Richard Eber at rjerje@pacbell.net.
Rich Eber
Rich Eber is a local journalist and long time resident of Concord. His diverse topics covered go from politics to gourmet food. He can be reached at rjerje@pacbell.net