Afghan Cuisine adds flavor to Concord’s culinary scene

CONCORD, CA (Dec. 18, 2024) — Afghanistan has a long history of continuous warfare. Going back to the days of Alexander the Great and Genghis Khan, foreign powers have occupied this land connecting Europe with Central Asia.

In recent history, the old Soviet Union and the United States both failed to tame these proud people. Ill-fated military efforts, conducted in mountainous terrain, led to the mass immigration of political refugees to the United States.

Contra Costa County has been a landing spot for thousands of these people, with several opening restaurants to make a living in their new home.

One such place is Kunduz Kabab at 3999 Clayton Road in Concord, started a year ago by Amanullah Makhdomi, a former interpreter for the U.S. government. He serves Afghanistan cuisine using his mom’s recipes. Having nine brothers and sisters to feed, many meals needed to be prepared while he was growing up.

Kababs and Mantu

At Kunduz, named for a province in Northern Afghanistan, where the family once resided, the signature dishes are kababs. The marinated skewers feature Halal-raised chicken, beef and lamb.

When he first opened, Amanullah cooked these tasty treats on a charcoal-fueled fire outside his back door. The city and fire department intervened, claiming it a fire hazard. For now, he prepares the kababs in the kitchen.

Not to be missed is the Mantu, dumplings filled with ground beef, onions and exotic spices covered with a tangy yogurt sauce. This is the best rendition of the classic Afghani delicacy I’ve had since Zalla moved to Danville more than five years ago.

Bolani is another Afghan standard. The fried flat bread is stuffed with a choice of potato, pumpkin or leeks and served with a delicious spicy dip. Not to be missed is the Qabili Palau, comprised of several vegetables, spices and a choice of meats, served on a bed of basmati rice.

My favorite menu item is the Bodinjon Borani. I normally don’t care much for roasted eggplant, but this dish, covered with a rich tomato, herb, yogurt mixture, simply melts in your mouth. This and many other dishes can be ordered vegetarian to accommodate non-meat eaters.

Intriguing menu

On my next trip to Kunduz, I am eager to sample their Chainaki lamb stew, cooked in a clay pot, and several other intriguing menu selections.

Afghanistan shares borders with several countries, including Turkmenistan, Iran and Pakistan. These neighbors’ influence is evident in regional cuisines.

My only “complaint” with Kunduz is the size of their portions. In most cases, they are too large for the appetite of one person. Although they feature several combo plate options geared for individuals, this restaurant is best enjoyed splitting dishes by two or more diners.

Kunduz has a large Afghan following locally and from the entire Bay Area. It has limited seating, so reservations are especially recommended on weekends at 925-471-0033.

Chopan another option

On the other side of town is another excellent Afghan restaurant, Chopan Kabob. Owner Javed Ahmadi has operated this business for 16 years.

Because of the war being waged by Russia, Javed’s family was displaced by frequent bombings. Fleeing across the border to Pakistan, the family was able to immigrate to the United States in 1992.

While Chopin Kabob offers most of the dishes served at Kunduz, there are many subtle differences between these two excellent restaurants. Their Tandoori chicken and fish have ties to nearby Pakistan. Chopin’s basmati rice is unique, richly seasoned with cumin.

Especially enjoyable is the Beef Chapel Kabob, seasoned ground sirloin infused with fresh scallions, cilantro and Afghan spices, cooked in a clay oven. They offer several versions of this dish with different levels of spice.

I also enjoyed the Tikka Beef steak flavored by a delicious marinade. On future visits to Chopan and Kunduz, I will endeavor to ask for the beef and lamb to be less cooked to accommodate my “rarer” taste profile. Ordinarily, Afghans serve their meats on the well-done side.

Chopan Kabob is located at the edge of the Las Montanas Shopping Center at 2691A in Concord. Phone 925-689-5488.

Neither of these restaurants offer alcoholic beverages. In addition to these full-service choices are several Afghan fast food places in Concord. Among them are Sam’s Kebab, International Market and Grill, the Kebab Shop and Aga Grill. All of these places offer healthier options than the usual bun and run hamburger places.

Afghan cuisine has evolved into an important component of the diverse local culinary scene.

Contact Rich Eber at richeber9@gmail.com.