Jack’s in Pleasant Hill goes south of the border for new cantina

PLEASANT HILL, CA (Nov. 1, 2024) — Business is brisk at the newly opened Cantina Jack’s in Pleasant Hill.

At the site of the former Sweet Tomatoes buffet, John Marcovici quietly sits at a corner table observing the proceedings.

The famed restaurateur, along with his brothers Chris and Dave, started Jack’s 14 years ago. Now, the trio has taken up the challenge of launching a Mexican eatery.

John patiently confers with his staff, most of whom are new to Jack’s way of doing business. He tries to impart the keys to success that have made their restaurant a popular destination.

These components include treating guests and employees like family, using the freshest ingredients and implementing the highest standards of quality control. All of these factors are intended to lead to multiple visits by customers.

‘Restaurants are in our blood’

“The idea for Cantina Jack’s popped up a year ago when our landlord made the space available,” John Marcovici notes. “We decided to open up an upscale Mexican restaurant that is absent in the Pleasant Hill culinary scene. We can’t help it; restaurants are in our blood, since we worked as kids at our Mom’s Eleni’s in Clayton”

Taking on a new challenge, the three Greek brothers brought in Richard Frausto as executive chef. His vast experience includes a lengthy stint at La Calenda Mexican restaurant, from iconic chef Thomas Keller of French Laundry fame.

My recent dining experience at Cantina Jack’s began with a complimentary basket of corn chips with house-made salsa. From there, a wide selection of small plates is available.

The guacamole is predictively tasty with just the right amount of cilantro, chili peppers, diced onions and lime juice, blended with ripe avocados. The grilled octopus with an herb sauce is an excellent choice. There are also Nachos Fundido, ideal for sharing.

My favorite small plate was Esquites, comprised of grilled corn in a chipotle mayonnaise with lime. Yum. There are sopes, ceviche and other menu items to try on subsequent visits.

I enjoyed my appetizers with a frozen margarita ordered from the bar. I had the house tequila as it is difficult for me to differentiate from the more than 100 types sold at Cantina Jack’s. My drink had extra fresh lime juice and was a step above the cocktails concocted in milkshake machines as might be served at Chevys.

Main menu

From the main menu, we couldn’t resist trying the watermelon-feta salad with red onion and cucumber. It was especially delicious, with all the ingredients melding perfectly. This was a welcome change from the Yuppie greens we are so used to.

We then ventured into tacos, where Jack’s commitment to quality ingredients was evident. The firm cod and carne asada using skirt steak flap were delicious. The slow-roasted pork pastor was moist, featuring rich Mexican spices.

There are 10 varieties available, including shrimp, veggies and chicken. The three brothers couldn’t resist placing a Greek taco with lamb and a lemon-oregano vinaigrette on the menu. All of these dishes can be ordered as burritos and in bowl form.

For those desiring main dishes, Frausto offers options that include Pollo Al Carbon, enchiladas verde, fajitas, grilled snapper and a Cantina prime sirloin steak. These dishes elevate Cantina Jack’s from a taco bar to a place of fine dining.

There is also a kid’s menu in Jack’s tradition of being a family-friendly place.

If one is still hungry after a Mexican meal, there is a selection of homemade desserts. Their flan, with a delicate caramel sauce, is not to be missed. The rice pudding with a pineapple compote and churro strips is equally good.

Cantina Jack’s serves drinks from Morgan Territory Brewery through a window separating the two establishments.

It will be interesting to see how Cantina Jack’s evolves. Judging from what has transpired during their first months of operation, the results should be tasty.

Cantina Jack’s is open 11 a.m.-9 p.m. daily, staying open an hour later on Fridays and Saturday, at 40 Crescent Dr., Pleasant Hill. For more information, call 925-326-9813.