New digs for Concord’s Isla but top ­quality still a hallmark

CONCORD, CA (July 29, 2024) — When Victor and Sonia Rodriguez opened Isla in 2020, it appeared the restaurant had little chance for success.

Between the COVID pandemic, their lack of experience in the trade and a location with virtually no foot traffic on Clayton Road, the couple faced an uphill battle.

But survive they did, thanks to excellent food and personal service. Word of mouth endorsements spread about Isla’s menu featuring seafood from the Baja region of Mexico. While many other restaurants shuttered, they prospered.

The origin for the success of Isla is rooted in the island of Isla Navidad, Mexico, where Sonia grew up. Her dad Filiberto was a fisherman who caught lobster, red snapper, shrimp and other seafood from nearby waters.

At home, their diet featured ceviche, grilled fish and locally sourced foods adapted to Mexican tastes. Sonia has been able to replicate this cuisine in their Concord restaurant.

New home

After three years, their six tables remained busy as did a brisk take-out trade. In late June, they moved their business to 2118 Mt. Diablo St. They filled the site where the well-regarded Canasta Restaurant was located, and Isla’s customers soon checked out the new digs.

Fortunately, the quality of the food has remained high at the larger facility, which can accommodate 30 tables for indoor and outdoor dining.

We started our meal with an order of homemade chips and guacamole. Served with Isla’s fresh green and red salsa, this is a great way to begin the dining experience.

We then ventured to their ceviche. Not being fans of tilapia, we selected the shrimp and octopus combination. The lime juice and peppers merged perfectly, and those at my table consumed every morsel. If a smaller portion is desired, the ceviche can be procured in a tostada or burrita format.

Following our appetizers, we ordered the quesabirria. This consisted of slow-cooked beef brisket folded into a corn tortilla. The whole taco was then dipped into a rich peppery consommé, then grilled to perfection. Served with a side of the broth for dipping, this was one of Isla’s best menu items.

I also enjoyed the Isla taco featuring medium rare flap steak, guacamole and salsa covered with a grilled shrimp. For me, this was culinary heaven.

We didn’t try the Mexican staple of rice and beans, but they can be found on the more traditional part of Isla’s menu. Other favorites are the chilaquiles verdes, carne asada and the fajitas. They also have a wide selection of nachos and torta sandwiches. I look forward to trying them on future visits.

Don’t miss the mole

Noteworthy is Sonia’s mole sauce, which she makes from scratch using Mexican chocolate as a base. Its complex flavors pair well with the rice that accompanies the dish. Her chile relleno, made to order, is among the best rendition of this Mexican specialty around. Items like pozole soup, whole snapper and the octopus platter also help separate Isla from many other eateries along Concord’s famed Taco Trail.

At the new location, Isla has obtained a liquor license for serving beer and wine. We enjoyed their margarita cocktail, which pairs well with spicy foods. They also feature house-made fruit drinks along with a refreshing cucumber concoction.

Children are welcome, with a kids’ quesadilla appealing to the younger set. While I was dining at Isla, Sonia made a fresh strawberry, Jello, coconut and condensed milk treat enjoyed by all ages. Their Mexican flan is a fine way to conclude a satisfying meal.

It remains to be seen if Isla’s menu will translate well to the larger venue. Sonia, who prides herself on supervising every dish they make, is confident they will not let their patrons down. And Victor proclaims: “It is our desire to please our customers. Nothing to us is more important.”

Located at 2118 Mt. Diablo St. in Concord, Isla is open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Wednesday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Thursday-Saturday and 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday. Closed Mondays. Reservations can be made at 925-375-1483.

Contact Rich Eber at richeber9@gmail.com.