Hikers “feel the burn” on the aptly named Mist Trail as they climb over 1000 feet while getting drenched from the Vernal Falls spray. (Photo: Kevin Parker)
Yosemite Valley is nature at its most awesome
My legs were seemingly frozen from the knees down as I stood in the Merced River hoping to spot a climber on El Capitan – a massive 3,600-foot slab of granite and a cornerstone of the Yosemite Valley.
With the recent popularity of the movie “Free Solo,” El Cap was a definite hot spot and a great way to celebrate July 4th.
We had six days inside Yosemite National Park, with two families, 10 bicycles and a campsite near Happy Isles Trailhead. It had been 17 years since I last visited Yosemite, long before kids, climbing the cables up Half Dome and sleeping in the backcountry. That trip has always stood out in my mind, until I returned with my family and fell in love with this park again.
With more than 90 species of mammals, 11 waterfalls, 90 foot bridges and 1,500 different types of flowering plants, why wouldn’t you visit – especially since it’s only about a four-hour car ride from the Bay?
Moving around the valley via bike, hike or bus is the way to go (in that order). Park your car – and leave it.
We spent much of our first day riding around the valley via a vast network of paved and dirt trails. We biked up to Mirror Lake and stood in awe as Half Dome towered above us.
The kiddos did some water jumps – almost ice baths as a heavy winter brought big-time river flows. The upper portion of the Merced River moves very fast and is extremely dangerous. It was much calmer below Stoneman Bridge, bringing out rafters and tubers alike.
The day hike up Mist Trail to Vernal Falls (317 feet) was a trip highlight. This trail is one of the most popular in the world, so expect some foot traffic.
The trail leaves from Happy Isles and quickly earns a leg burner classification, as you eat up more than 1,000 feet of elevation gain over a relatively short distance. The sheer amount of water coming off Vernal Falls shot a mist that drenched every hiker on the trail, making for slippery footing on the granite steps.
Plan for a lunch stop at Emerald Pools. Most turn around at the top and hike back down, but we pushed on to Clark Point. It was worth every bit of effort, with views of Vernal Falls from above and Nevada Falls (594 feet).
Hikers can also see Mt. Broderick, Liberty Cap and Half Dome along John Muir Trail. That trail has less foot traffic, extraordinary views and intermittent shade all the way down.
Yosemite Falls (2,425 feet) is the tallest waterfall in North America and had the absolute maximum water flow on our visit. This trail is an easy, one-mile trip that puts you literally right at the base of the falls. Head off piste and over a few rocks, and you’ve got an instant drenching on a hot summer day.
Nighttime in Stoneman Meadow was another trip favorite. Late-night bike rides with headlamps would transform into stargazing adventures. It’s an amazing feature of this park.
But for me, it was the granite and the water – fully overwhelming at times and a miracle of nature.
Beyond Yosemite Valley, there is so much more to see: Glacier Point, Wawona, Tuolumne Meadows and Hetch Hetchy to name a few. Whether you like naturalist programs, camping, walking, hiking, tours, rafting, sightseeing, films, stores or galleries, there is something for every type of person.
If you want to reset your inner naturalistic being and become one with nature, try a small dose of Yosemite and go climb a rock.
Where to Stay in Yosemite Valley
Camping, recreation.gov
Yosemite Lodge, Housekeeping Camp, Half Dome Village, Majestic Yosemite Hotel, travelyosemite.com
Camp 4, lottery system
Park Statistics
Area: 748,436 acres
Paved walking & bicycle paths: 20 miles
Hiking trails: 800 miles
Paved roads: 214 miles
Park visitors: 4.1 million last year
Overnight hikers: 51,000 last year
Tallest point: Mt. Lyell, 13,114 feet
Number of peaks above 12,000: 18+
Trip Tips
- Valley Loop Trail
- Happy Isles Nature Center
- Store food in bear-proof lockers
- Bicycles (a must)
- Hiking and water shoes
- Half Dome Village Ice Cream
- Upper Pines Campground